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Nepali Mountain Climbers

Moni Mulepati

article thumbnailMoni Mulepati is the first non-Sherpa Nepalese woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest, having reached the peak on 30 May 2005. At the same time, she became the first woman to be married...
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Babu Chiri Sherpa

article thumbnailBabu Chiri Sherpa (died April 29, 2001) was a Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer. He was born in a small village of Takshindu, in the Everest region of Nepal. He began his career as a climber at...
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Other Climbers

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Annapurna Mountain PDF Print E-mail

Annapurna (Sanskrit, Nepali, Nepal Bhasa: अन्नपूर्ण) is a series of peaks in the Himalaya, a 55-km-long massif whose highest point, Annapurna I, stands at 8,091 m (26,538 ft), making it the 10th-highest summit in the world and one of the 14 "eight-thousanders". It is located east of a great gorge cut through the Himalaya by the Kali Gandaki River, which separates it from the Dhaulagiri massif. (Dhaulagiri I lies 34km (21 mi) west of Annapurna I.) Annapurna is a Sanskrit name which is translated as Goddess of the Harvests. In Hinduism, Annapurna is a goddess of fertility and agriculture and an avatar of Durga.

 

Image

Geography

The Annapurna massif contains six major peaks over 7,200 m:

Annapurna I

8,091 m

(26,545 ft.) Ranked 10th; Prominence=2,894 m

28.595° N 83.819° E

Annapurna II

7,937 m

(26,040 ft.) Ranked 16th; Prominence=2,437 m

28.539° N 84.137° E

Annapurna III

7,555 m

(24,786 ft.) Ranked 42nd; Prominence=703 m

28.585° N 84.000° E

Annapurna IV

7,525 m

(24,688 ft.) (not a separate mountain)

28.539° N 84.087° E

Gangapurna

7,455 m

(24,457 ft.) Ranked 59th; Prominence=563 m

28.606° N 83.965° E

Annapurna South

7,219 m

(23,684 ft.) Ranked 101st; Prominence=775 m

28.518° N 83.806° E

 

Climbing expeditions

Annapurna I

Annapurna I was the first 8,000 metre peak to be climbed. Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, of a French expedition (including Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Marcel Ichac, Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot, Francis de Noyelle), reached the summit on June 3, 1950. (See the documentary of the expedition "Victoire sur l'Annapurna" by Marcel Ichac).

The south face of Annapurna was first climbed in 1970 by Don Whillans and Dougal Haston, members of a British expedition led by Chris Bonington which included the alpinist Ian Clough, who was killed by a falling ice-pillar during the descent.

In 1978, The American Women's Annapurna Expedition, a team led by Arlene Blum, became the first American team to climb Annapurna I. The expedition was also remarkable for being composed entirely of women. Sadly, Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz and Vera Watson died during this climb. (Vera Watson was the wife of computer scientist John McCarthy.)

On 3 February 1987, Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer made the first winter ascent of Annapurna I.

The Annapurna peaks are among the world's most dangerous mountains to climb, with a fatality rate of 40%.[1] As of 2005, only 103 successful summits have been made, for the loss of 56 lives, many to the avalanches for which the mountain is known. Climbers killed on the peak include famed Russian climber Anatoli Boukreev in 1997 and Christian Kuntner in 2005.

The other peaks

Annapurna II, the eastern anchor of the range, was first climbed in 1960 by a British/Indian/Nepalese team led by Jimmy Roberts, via the West Ridge, approached from the north. The summit party comprised Richard Grant, Chris Bonington, and Sherpa Ang Nyima. In terms of elevation, isolation (distance to a higher summit, namely Annapurna I, 30.5 km) and prominence (2,437 m), Annapurna II does not rank far behind Annapurna I. It is a fully independent peak, despite the close association with Annapurna I which its name seems to imply.

Annapurna III was first climbed in 1961 by an Indian expedition led by Mohan Kohli, via the Northeast Face. The summit party comprised Mohan Kohli, Sonam Gyatso, and Sonam Girmi.

Annapurna IV, near Annapurna II, was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz, via the North Face and Northwest Ridge. The summit party comprised Steinmetz, Harald Biller, and Jürgen Wellenkamp.

Gangapurna was first climbed in 1965 by a German expedition led by Günther Hauser, via the East Ridge. The summit party comprised 11 members of the expedition.

Annapurna South (also known as Annapurna Dakshin, or Moditse) was first climbed in 1964 by a Japanese expedition, via the North Ridge. The summit party comprised S. Uyeo and Mingma Tsering.

Machapuchare (6993m) is another important peak of the Annapurna Himal, though it just misses the 7000m mark.

Trekking in Annapurna  Region:

The area of Annapurna is famous for its possibilities of trekking.

There are three major trekking routes in Annapurna Region: to Jomsom Muktinath , to Annapurna Sanctuary ( Annapurna Base Camp), and a circuit of the Annapurna Himal itself. Pokhara is also a good starting place for short treks of one to four days, such as Ghorepani Trekking, Ghandruk Trekking and others. Mustang is also geographically a part of the Annapurna region, but because treks to Mustang are subject to special restrictions. About two-thirds of the trekkers in Nepal visit the Annapurna region. The area is easily accessible, hotels in the hills are plentiful, and treks here offer good scenery of both high mountains and lowland villages.

 


Comments (2)add feed
... : Alex Soyk
This site was really helpfull for the project that I am doing on Annapurna. I am working on a powerpoint for the English class that I am in. Thanks for all the information!!
September 24, 2008
... : dharmesh
please send me some information about mountaineering course...
November 05, 2011
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Last Updated ( Wednesday, 12 December 2007 )
 
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