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Moni Mulepati

article thumbnailMoni Mulepati is the first non-Sherpa Nepalese woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest, having reached the peak on 30 May 2005. At the same time, she became the first woman to be married...
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Babu Chiri Sherpa

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    Birds of Nepal: Bird Watching PDF Print E-mail

    Ardent bird watchers travel the length and breadth of Nepal doing nothing but bird watching. From dawn to dusk they utilize every minute possible to scan the area with their powerful binoculars in search of birds. Even meals are interrupted if a special bird makes a sudden appearance. Half-eaten dishes have to wait as they excitedly rush out to gaze at the intruder. These ken birders will go anywhere any time to catch a glimpse of rare species of birds.Image

    There are bird watching societies all over the world including Nepal. It is up to the tour operator to tap them. A happy bird watcher will become a good messenger for the country once he returns to his home. Word of mouth travels very fast which creates enormous good will for the country.

    As a general Nepali, we may not understand why birders want to see birds and spend money during this process. But as a tour entrepreneur, we must realize that some people are passionate about watching birds. Bird watchers go around the globe in the search of birds and keeping records of what they have seen. At the end of the day as assessment is made of the number of new sightings. The sight of a rare bird generates great excitement among these bird enthusiasts. Nepal needs to add new attractions to lure more tourists into the country. The world wide web has made it relatively easy to reach all corners of the globe. We need to highlight all the aspects of tourism including bird watching and be able to tap the wealth generated by such eco-tourism.

    Kathmandu Valley: Bird watching begins right here from the garden of your hotel! Kathmandu valley has the longest history of bird watching, which has contributed nearly 600 species records from the valley only. These records span over a period of nearly two centuries and needless to say that things have changed then and now. Nevertheless, there are still some exciting birding destinations in the country.

    Bagmati and Manohara Rivers: There have been many exciting records from these rivers including Ibisbill, Hodgson’s Bushchat, White-tailed Eagle, White-rumped Vulture etc. Unchecked development has unfortunately taken place along the banks of these rivers in recent years, which has diminished the variety of our feathered friends. However, still many common species of herons, egrets, kingfishers, and some waders are easily seen here.

    As more and more land is used for development purpose, many birds have driven towards places that are least disturbed, within and in the periphery of the valley. The stretch of Bagmati from the Chobhar gorge downwards and lake Taudaha are still good places to see many waders, waterfowls and birds of prey.

     Phulchowki: the finest birding destination in the valley without much doubt will be the Phulchowki hills. Although not a protected reserve, the forest conditions here are outstandingly healthy and les disturbed. A total of 270 species of birds have been recorded in the hills only. Here one can see varieties of laughingthrushes, babblers, sunbirds, fulvettas, yuhinas, warblers, finches etc. The most sought after bird at Phulchowki will be the Nepal Cutia, and elusive but strikingly coloured bird from the babbler family. 

    Phulchowki is located 18 km southest of Kathmandu with its peak culminating into a height of 2760 m , the highest in the valley. At the foot of this hill lies the Botanical Gardens of Godavari. Godavari is  only a half hour drive from Kathmandu and one can easily reach here by hiring a taxi. Mini buses and Micro buses (as vans are popularly known here) are also available and leave for Godavari from Lagankhel Bus Park.

    Starting from the botanical gardens, birding is possible right close to the summit of Phulchowki which can be recognized by the communication tower at the top. The army for security reasons restricts access to the top and one should hot try to go to the top unless a prior permission with the army has been made. To climb up, walk past St. Xavier’s School taking the road on the right side of the school. All along the dirt road one can see various birds either feeding on the ground or perched on trees andn low bushes. ImageThe road is best site to stay as it allows wider view of the area  and is infrequently used by cars. The forest is beautiful with some grass cutters trails which can be followed for some time. But always come back to dusk to be able to see birds in the lower and upper slopes. Transport must be arranged in advance if one wants to explore the upper slopes  because the road conditions are rather bad. We recommend hiring a four-wheel drive if one wishes to explore the upper slopes. Alternatively, one should contact reliable tour operators with local bird experts to arrange this, which should cut off a lot of hassle for you. One should carry food and drinking water, as nothing will be available once the marble quarry is passed on the way to Phulchowki. Accommodations are available at Godavari area which can be booked in advance through any tour operators.

    Around 100 species of birds, including the only endemic of Nepal, Spiny Babblers has been recorded in the past during a daylong excursion. Some of the rare and special birds are Nepal Cutia, Grey-sided Laughingthrush, Black-throated Parrotbill, Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker, Spot-winged Grosbeak, Nepal Wren Babbler etc.

    Shivapuri: Shivapuri is another fine destination in the valley. Unlike Phulchowki, it is a protected area and guarded by the Nepal Army against illegal entry and poaching. It lies 12 km north of Kathmandu and is the second highest place in the Valley. This place is easily reached by hiring a taxi to Budhanikantha (west) or Sundarijal (east) or taking a regular bus to these places. Buses leave for these places from central city bus park. One should buy an entry permit at the entrance before entering the National Park. Compared to Phulchowki, this place is not we explored. The bird life here is similar to Phulcowki. The higher slopes are comparatively less distributed and has mature forests.

    Nagarjun: The other recommended birding site is Nagarjun (2105 m ) which lies north west of Kathmandu. It is only a 10 minute drive from Thamel and lies just above Balaju. The best strategy will be to reach the gate, buy entrance permit and walk along the road. Care should be taken not to walk along the prohibited area.

    Nagarjun forest differs both from Phulchowki and Shivapuri in having mostly secondary forest. There is also large stands of Pine stands at the base of the hill. Great Barbet, Red-billed Blue Magpie, White-crested Laughingthrush, Kalij Pheasant, Eurasian Woodcock and varieties of flycatchers can sped half a day or full day here exploring the slopes. A good time to visit all the locations around Kathmandu Valley will be between October and May.

    Pokhara: In Pokhara, the two well known lakes phewa Tal andn Begnas Tal and the surrounding areas are highly recommended. Of  particular interest are the areas with minimum disturbances and away from human inhabitation. The forest around the southern edge of Phewa lake and that behind Fishtail Lodge are ideal locations for forest birding. Look out in the open fields and pools especially in the winter for egrets, herons, pipits, wagtails and bunting etc. Birds that might be seen on the lakes will be varieties of ducks, gulls and terns and occasionally one may see falcons hunting by the lake side.

    Begnas Tal is 15 km away from Pokhara and is easily reached by hiring a taxi or bicycle. Accommodations are available here too. The lake is surrounded by terraced hills and light forests. One should try to explore forested hills and wetland areas. This lake is less disturbed compared to Phewa and birds similar to that of Phewa have been sighted here.

    Similarly a day hike along Sarangkot should be good for varieties of birds  of prey. Sarankot is the highest hill in the valley and lies northwest from the lakeside area. Birds such as Lamergeier can be seen from here.

    Pokhara lakeside is basically a tourist town and caters to all the needs of visitors. From cheap lodges to very expensive star hotels are available in and around the Pokhara. Lakeside is full with restaurants of all kinds and undoubtedly the best eating place in the country. Pokhara can be reached by air or by road. Buses leave every morning from Kantipath near Royal Palace in front of Phora Durbar. Bird watching is the best between October and April.

    Chitwan: Chitwan is one of the best places for bird watching. Once upon a time, chitwan used to be the finest wildlife destination in Asia! There are many lodges and hotels outside the National Park which cater special wildlife programmes. A limited number of lodges are run inside the park also which cater standard service for the guests.

    Sal, riverine and mixed forest together with extensive tracts of grasslands and several rivers that make part of the natural park boundary in the west, north and south respectively.

    Chitwan lies in the lowlands what is known an inner terai or Doon valley and can be reached by air or by road. It lies 165 km southwest of kathmandu. A naturalist guide will accompany the vistors through the park. Going along into the jungle can be dangerous and it is always recommended that an experience guide should be taken. Chitwan has large mammals such as Royal Bengal Tiger, one-horned Rhinoceros, Sloth Bear, Wild Boar, Gaur, wild Elephant etc all of which can be dangerous.

    A total of 539 species have been recorded in Chitwan, which is the highest total compared to any other protected area of that size in Nepal. New birds are continually added to the park by an excellent network of young birders that reside in the park. Here, one can see variety of woodpeckers, babblers, hornbills, owls, nightjars, pipits, ducks, egrets, herons, eagles, flycatchers etc.

    From birding point of view any time between Decembers to April is good, however the best time being generally after February till April.

    Koshi Barrage and Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve: The wildlife Reserve and koshi Barrage lie in the eastern terai along the east-west highway. One can either fly to Biratnagar or then catch a taxi to koshi or dirve directly to one of the tourist camps. All buses to kakarvitta, Biratanagar, Dharan(basically all with destinations east of koshi River) have to pass this way.

    A very large number of birds can be seen the wetlands and marshes created by River. In addition to these, grasslands and patches of young forests are ideal home for many migratory birds that visit or pass koshi area. So far, 476 birds’ species have been reported from koshi alone and is by far the best and most exciting birding destination in the country. Koshi is exceptionally good for waterbirds and birds of prey such a eagles, vultures, harriers and falcons.

    Birds are seen just about anywhere you go around the reserve or barrage. Birding starts from the camp where you are staying and then the embankment, forest or river. Boating provides an excellent opportunity to see birds on the sand bars, small is lands and banks.

    Swamp Francolin has been a synonym for Koshi, which is a rare and threatened species of birds. This bird can be seen or heard along the entire embankment within the reserve. Koshi also has Wild Buffalo and freshwater Gangetic Dolphin which are added attractions to visiting birders. For a birder visiting in Nepal, Koshi is  must destinations, with out which birding in Nepal will be incomplete.

    While a Koshi, an excursion to Dharan Forest is also worthwhile. Dharan Forests are unique in the country and the visit will complement the visit to Koshi. This forest is mixed sal forests which is excellent for birds. From the camp, it takes little over an hour to reach this forest.

    Good time to visit and adjoining areas will be from October till May. The best time however are from mid-November till mid-April.

    For a birder, a combination of Kathmandu-Chitwan-Koshi and by road and fly back from Biratnagar, it takes 40  minutes to fly to Kathmandu and by road Chitwan – Koshi is neary 7-8 hours. The road condition is good between this stretch. The same road  west ward will also connect one to Royal Barida National Park.

     

    Bardia: Much of Royal Bardia National Park is covered with Sal forest and the rest being riverine forests  and grasslands. The mighty Karnali river flows by park and provides great spectacle of birds. Though most tourist arrive in the hope of seeing tigers and rhinos, Bardia is also a good place for bird watching. Here too, a boat ride on the turquoise blue water of Karnali gives plenty of opportunity to see birds of many varieties. A large number of waterbirds are seen here; which include Great Cormorants, Black Stork, White-tailed Eagle, Bar-headed Goose, Great Thick-knee, Little Partincole ect. The forests are equally good for seeing varieties of birds, notably Great Slaty Woodpecker and Silver-eared Mesia, Bengal Florican can be seen soon after the grass cutting in one of the Phantas. Besides these, several other common species can be easily seen here.

    An added attraction is the Gangetic Dolphin, seen occasionally coming out of the placid waters. There are also Gharials adnd other in this river. Is also houses the world’s biggest Wild Asiatic Elephant measuring 11 ft 3 inches as the shoulder

    There are many buses that go to Dhangadi, Tikapur or Mahendra Nagar from Kathmandu every afternoon. But make sure you get ogg at Ambasa in the early morning. From here one has to either walk to the Park Headquarter or lodge or get a lift from on of the lodge vechiles. The highway goes right through the National park, therefore failing to get off in time means going past the park.

    One can also fly to Nepalgunj and then drive to the Park. From there one can hire a car to reach the park Headquarter, Thakurdwara. Alternatively, if you want to save time and hassles from organizing, look for a reliable travel agency that specialize on such  services in Kathmandu. They will do all the work for you- you just have to relax and enjoy the birding and wildlife viewing.

    Best time to visit is December to March. Other interesting times are April, October, and November. A three day stay is recommended in order to cover the forest, grasslands and riverside. Like in Chitwan, it is recommended that an experienced guide should be taken when doing excursion in the park.

    The ideal time for birding will be early morning or late afternoon in all places mentioned above. Besides these localities in the southern Nepal, the well known trekking areas are also equally good to see various specialities. The trek routes include Langtang National Park Kyanjing and Gosaikunda), Annapurna Conservation Area (Jomsom trek, Ghorepani Trek, Sanctuary, Circuit), Sagarmatha Nationalpark, Upper Mai Valley (which borders with Sikkim and west Bengal of India), Makalu Barun National Park, Kanchenjungha Conservation Area, Rara-Jumla Trek etc. Please make sure that you organize these trips with a reputed agency as not all of these places have teahouse facilities.

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