Shortly after Nepal opened its borders to the outside world in 1950, tales began to trickle out of a remote valley in central Nepal, a place of tranquil beauty rarely visited by outsiders. Filled with lush vegetation and dotted with shimmering lakes, the valley had a backdrop containing one of the most dramatic vistas in the world: a140 kilometers panorama of towering Himalayan Peaks, that in the clear air seemed close enough to touch. In fact Machhapuchhre, the famous “Fishtail Peak”, is only forty-five kilometers from the hotels on Phewa Lake, without a single mountain range between.

That secluded valley in the heart of Nepal is, of course, Pokhara, a city 200 kilometers west of Kathmandu that lies at the foot of the Annapurna Massif. The area’s present-day popularity makes it easy to forgot that until recently it was little more than a sleepy village. Even transportation by wheel was unknown here until 1961, when an airplane, ironically enough, delivered the first primitive oxcart.

Today, connected to the outside world by two highways and numerous daily flights, Pokharais no longer remote or secluded. But it remains as beautiful as ever, and only slightly less peaceful. The valley’s low altitude (900 meters) the sub-tropical climate allow bananas, citrus trees, cacti, and rice to flourish. Behind this magnificent scenery rise the snow covered mountains. Dhaulagiri, Himalchuli, Machhapuchhre, and the five peaks of Annapurna Massif fill the horizon, rising, it seems, directly from the valley floor and close enough to touch.

No matter where you are in Pokhara, Machhapuchhre dominates the horizon like an icecapped pyramid. From the valley, it appears as a sinlge soaring white spire, but form a few days’ walk to the northwest, the twin peaks which form the fishtail become visible., The 6,977-meters mountain remains officially unclimbed. The single expedition that was given permission to climb it in the 19502s stopped just below the summit, out of respect for the deities who are believed to reside there.

This spectacular setting has made Pokhara justifiably popular with Nepal’s visitors. Pokhara can be reached in thirty minutes via flights from Kathmandu, or an allday bus ride, or, more comfortably, in a rented car with river. Those with enough time to take the traditional route to Pokhara, traveling on foot through Nepal’s hill country. The week-long trek from Kathmandu is easy, ideal for families with children. It passes through the ancient capital of Gorkha. Simple food and lodging are available in small villages along the way.

Pokhara’s sprawling layout may surprise you upon arrival; it is one of the fastest growing cities in Nepal. It’s easiest to describe Pokhara as three district areas. The new town around the bus station is full of modern shops selling everything from instant photos to videos. The town’s old bazaar, stocked with traditional goods like copper pots and cotton cloth, stretches along two main streets in the northern section. A half-hour walk south of the bus station is Lakeside, a neighborhood of lodges, restaurants and shops area favored by travelers. Lakeside is also divided into two sections, one the dam and one along the lake shore.

Lining the lakeshore are a number of good lodges and restaurants. Budget travelers looking for quite place should try the side lanes leading off the main road. Several larger hotels near the airport offer upscale accommodations with expansive gardens and mountain views. The Fishtail Lodge at the east end of the lake is worth a visit, even if you aren’t staying there, just try its unique method of transportation: a wooden raft pulled by a rope that connects the lodge to the “mainland”.

Pokhara is fortunate to posses beauty below as well as  above. The main attraction in Lakeside is aquamarine Phewa Tal, one of the largest lakes in Nepal. Swimming or fishing are best done from a boat. Rent a rowboat for a few hours or an entire day and visit small island temple of Barahi in the middle of the lake or find a secluded corner of your own. As you are floating on the lake’s placid surface with a picnic lunch, admiring the double range of mountains appearing first on the horizon, then reflected in the water, it’s easy to forget the rest of the world and realize why Pokhara has become such a popular visitor destionation.

The mid-lake temple has one of Nepal’s more entertaining legends associated with it. A long time ago a god came to earth disguised as traveler looking for shelter.

Everyone turned him away but an old couple offered whatever they had to him. The next day the angry god sent a deluge upon the village in punishment for their selfishness, and of course, everyone was swept away but the old couple. The temple of Tal Barahi  is erected on the island in honor of their generosity.

Once settled in Pokhara, you may be content to relax for few days and admire the beauty. Getting up  at 5:30 am in the morning may not sound very relaxing, but it is worth it for the beautiful view of sunrise on the Himalaya. Dawan is also the time to pick out the summit of Annapurna I, the first 8000-meters peak in the world to be scaled by man (by French in 1950), and the first of the five Annapurna summits to be illuminated by the rising sun. The large grassy meadow in the middle of Lakeside offers a clear view of the mountains and is also a good place to watch the fishermen, some still paddling old-style wooden dugout canoes, heading out for their morning’s work.

Others enjoy the peaceful valley for its relaxed pace- a good antidote to urban Kathamndu- and its many recreational opportunities. Away from Phewa Tal, a morning or afternoon could be sent exploring the old bazaar. It’s a two hours walk from lakeside or shorter by rented bicycle. The dozens of small shops lining the street sell everything from silver jewelry to soap. Often the craftsmen are busy making their wares inside shops. The narrow lanes make it easy to imagine the days when mule trains from the north would file through the streets of Pokhara to trade loads of salt and yak wool for local products. Even today, mule trains can be seen in the town, usually led by recognized form a long distance by the sound of their jingling bells.