Trekking in the eastern region of Nepal provides a wide range of wilderness and cultural encounters - especially in the Everest region. There are those who wish to reach the highest point on earth. While there are those who choose to live out their dreams by standing at the foot of Mt. Everest (8,848 m). Still others prefer a middle ground south of the Khumbu such as Solu.

Solu Khumbu

Solu, or Sho Rung as the Sherpas know it extendsfrom Jiri to Dudh Kosi River in the east. The climate is temperate, forests and pasturelands are well watered, the farmlands cultivated with maize, wheat, barley and apples.

Buddhist lamas, monks and nuns led by Rinpoches (reincarnate lamas) serve the predominantly Sherpa communities from gompas (monasteries). Solu has two separate destinations, Pikey and the Dudhkunda Cultural Trail. While it is also a path to the high country of Khumbu, Solu invites a leisurely pace. Spring rhododendron and magnolia blooms are more profuse here than almost anywhere in Nepal. Solu used to be part of the traditional route used by early Everest expeditions., but nowadays treks begin from Jiri (1,905 m, 6,250 ft.) cutting several days off the old trail that began from Lamosangu. Frequent lodges and wholesome meals allow the independent trekker to travel light. Campers have more flexibility to get off the beaten track.

Beyond Solu and recognized as a World Heritage Site, the Sagarmatha National Park in the Khumbu is one of the few places on earth that has a unique bio-diversity and the highest and youngest mountain system in the world. For those with sufficient time, a 10-12 day trek through Solu to the Khumbu and the Sagarmatha National Park is an excellent itinerary both in terms of acclimatization and to experience the changing customs, traditions, and lifestyles as you pass through lower altitude settlements to those in the higher altitudes.

A part of the Himalayan ecological zone, the Park was added to the list of World Heritage Sites in 1979 and is spread over 1,148 sq. km. in the Khumbu region. The Park contains three of the world's seven highest mountains Sagarmatha or Mt. Everest, Lhotse, and Cho Oyu and is also home to several other prominent peaks most of which are above 6,000 meters. Climbers and trekkers continue to trek to Everest Base Camp and not surprisingly the "Roof of the World" continues to be the scene of some of mountaineering's most significant accomplishments and a favored haven for alpine enthusiasts.

Mt. Everest is the prime attraction of Solukhumbu. New trekking trails: Dudhkunda-Khaling Rai-Pikey Trail, offer additional choices and a peek at the Himalayan lifestyle, culture and a wide range of nature experience.

Junbesi Village (Lower Solukhumbu)

Junbesi (2,700 m) is one of the most beautiful Sherpa villages in the Lower Solukhumbu region, with its astonishing landscapes, cultural wealth, and the hospitable Sherpa people. Junbesi is also a junction of the Everest trail and Thuptenchholing monastery. Junbesi falls on the Pikey-Dudhkunda trail. There are comfortable family-run lodges here with modern facilities like hot showers, which are a real delight after the long hours of trekking. Visitors also have a choice in food varieties ranging from local apple pie, apple raksi (alcohol) to fresh organic vegetables cooked as desired. Cultural performances by the local youth add to the charm of the experience. Junbesi is about 4 to 5-hour trek from Salleri, the district
headquarters, and about 4 1/2 hours from Phaplu airport.

 Chaurikharka (Upper Solukhumbu )

The settlements of Chaurikharka (2,600-3,000 m), that fall en route to Namche from Lukla, provide excellent options for acclimatization. A little off the route to Everest, Rimijung is a charming settlement in Chaurikharka, which is a day hike from Lukla. Rimijung is a quaint little village with the old Pemachholing Gompa (monastery) and nunnery settlements. Tourists can observe the Sherpa lifestyle and culture. Tourists are also interested to visit the local blacksmiths to watch them at work. In addition, cultural programs are performed by the local people on the tourists' request. Also in plenty are beautiful views of the mountains, including spectacular views of Mt. Everest and other mountain peaks. Wildlife like Himalayan bear, Himalayan tahr, and non timber forest products are found in Rimijung. The rare snow leopard is also reported to have been spotted by a lucky few sometimes. Camping grounds are available in Rimijung. Another settlement in Chaurikharka worth a visit is Lumding which offers panoramic view of more than 45 mountain peaks. Lumding is 4-day trek from Lukla. Trekkers need to carry camping gear and be self sufficient in terms of food and water when visiting Lumding.

Khunde & Khumjumg (Upper Solukhumbu)

The traditional villages of Khunde and Khumjung are above Namche. These two villages with rock walls dividing stony fields have beautiful vistas on all sides. Khunde Hospital , built in 1966 and maintained by the Himalayan Trust, is at the top of the village. Its mission is to treat local people, but it also provides emergency care to trekkers. Khumjung is the largest village in the Khumbu at the foot of the sacred peak Khumbila. Another place to visit is Khumjung School which is the original Hillary School established in 1960.

 Tengboche Monastery (Upper Solukhumbu)

Tengboche monastery is perched on a high ridge across the canyon from Khunde. This is the leading Buddhist centre in the Khumbu, and its location is one of the most scenic. Pines, azaleas and colourful mountain rhododendrons surround the attractive gompa (monastery), which rests amid stunning views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. Tengboche itself features a rest house and a number of lodges and camping sites.

From Tengboche you can continue on to Pheriche, Kala Pattar and the hamlet of Gorakshep. From here, the site of Everest Base Camp is easily accessible, as is the summit of Kala Pattar (5,545 m), from which much of Mt. Everest is clearly visible. However, you must take time to properly acclimatize as the altitude gains are rapid.

 Thuptenchholing Monastery (Lower Solukhumbu)

Thuptenchholing monastery is about an hour from Junbesi. The monastery is 4-hour trek from the district headquarters Salleri. This monastery, founded in the late 1960s by Tushi Rinpoche, is about 5 hours from the Phaplu airstrip. It is a small active monastery surrounded by an aroma of pines, natural beauty, and a variety of flora that enhance the serenity of the monastery and its surroundings. The monastery is popular as a center of religious tourism and its reputation has been further boosted by the fame of His Holiness Thulsuk Rinpoche. There are more than 500 monks and nuns who study Buddhism, meditate and offer prayers in this monastery.

Thamo and Thame (Upper Solukhumbu)

Thamo (3,700 m) and Thame (3,900 m) are Sherpa villages, about 2-4 hours northwest of the Park headquarters. About 50 households are located at the settlement. The two settlements fall on the way to Renjo La Pass very popular visit among tourists. A little off the main trekking trail, Thamo and Thame offer untouched Sherpa culture where people have maintained the traditional way of life. They also offer a taste of the local culture through home-stay accommodation. Cultural groups perform shows for tourists on request. In addition, the jungle near the settlement harbor endangered wildlife species, like musk deer and pheasants. The mainstay of local economy here is tourism.

Pema Choeling Trail

Pema Choeling Trail is a beautiful destination that is yet to be developed and practiced as a tourism product. Although, the Trail is visited every year by local visitors, and foreigners, the potential of the Trail has been underestimated and neglected. The Pema Choeling Trail is the trekking Trail that connects Rimijung with Gomlha, Pangjung and Dhumijoa. Rimijung can be reached from Ghat, Rokamba, Zomfute and Phakding from the main Everest Trail. From Rimijung, visitors can visit Pema Choeling Monastery, Tye Khongma Monastery and Gomlha nunnery settlement for a Buddhist and Sherpa ‘way of life’ experience. Visiting these places is good for getting acclimatized, enjoying the natural beauty and experiencing cultural and religious Sherpa tradition. The Pema Choeling Trail has a lot to offer to the visitors; from high mountains to green forests and beautiful ‘Mani.’ These places have their own way of expressing beauty both natural and cultural.

According to the legend, it is said that couple hundred years ago, seven people decided to take ‘Thuwa’ (little statue of Buddha worshipped as the main god of the Monastery) to Tibet. Surprisingly, the weather started to become worse as they came closer to the border between Nepal and Tibet. The small statue continued to become heavier and heavier. It was difficult even for the seven people to lift it. Suddenly, the statue talked to those seven people and told them that he wishes to stay in Rimijung which is his real home. The seven people returned to Nepal and the weather began to clear up. It was then that the ‘Thuwa’ was established again in the Monastery. ‘Thuwa’ is still kept safely in the Monastery and taken out during Dumje festival for the public to worship.

Pema Choeling Monastery is located in the head of Rimijung. This Monastery is very important to the people of the Pharak region as it has been serving as the spiritual protector of the region. This Monastery is managed by its management committee built in 2061 B.S. The Pema Choeling Monastery Management Committee has built kitchen and added rooms for the monks in its one and half year period. They have also published a handbook on the brief history of the Monastery. It is written in both Sherpa and Nepali languages. Such handbooks or other printed materials can be useful in providing accurate information of the history of the Monastery to visitors.

The Monastery has a teashop that serves visitors throughout the year. This teashop is managed by the monks. Currently, there are 30 monks in the Monastery. Twenty of them visit places to perform rituals and thus contribute small amount of money to the Monastery from their daily wages. The donations received from the local community and foreigners support the Monastery largely. Still, it is difficult for the Monastery as it does not have a permanent, independent source of income.

This Monastery is good for meditating and experiencing the Buddhist way of life. There is also a museum with hundreds of years old artifacts and religious documents. The items in the museum need to be labeled and the museum itself need to be managed properly.

Further Afield

From Lukla you can venture into the Hongu basin. "Wilderness" is the only apt term for the wild and rugged Hongu basin of the Khumbu. There are five small lakes, known as Panch Pokhari, within this huge glacial cirque. These small lakes, rest in the heart of the basin, surrounded by tumbling glaciers and large moraines. Overlooking it are the beautiful summits of Ama Dablam (6,812 m), Baruntse (7,220 m), Hongu South (6,057 m), Chamlang (7,310 m) and a number of unnamed pyramids of fluted ice, all over 6,000 m. A trek to the Hongu is a difficult, serious journey and should be attempted only with a guide and by persons experienced in mountaineering and properly equipped.

Other Trekking Peaks

There are 12 trekking peaks ranging from 5,806 m to 6,476 m in the Sagarmatha National Park that provide an opportunity to climb for the climbing enthusiasts without having to go through the effort and expenses required for a major mountaineering expedition. Permits to climb these peaks are processed by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) in Kathmandu.

How to Get There ?

Solu and Khumbu are in Solukhumbu district in Sagarmatha zone.

The fastest and simplest way to get to this area is by air. To reach the Solu region, you can take a half hour flight from Kathmandu to Phaplu and then a 20-minute walk to Salleri - the district headquarters of Solukhumbu. To reach Khumbu there are daily flights from Kathmandu to Lukla if you have limited time. However, proper acclimatization with rest days and a slow but steady pace is strongly advised.

To reach Solu region from Khumbu and vice versa, one has the option of trekking for about 2 days via Salleri-Tapting-Kerung and via Nunthala-Kharikhola-Chaurikharka. One can also fly which is rather cumbersome as one would need to fly out of Phaplu in Solu to Kathmandu, and then catch a flight back to Lukla in Khumbu.